Are Trays the New Nostalgia?

This week alone my food at two local eateries arrived, surprisingly, on heavy metal trays (see below). These are places that might otherwise have used good plateware given their style and relatively steep menu prices. Yet instead they employ an item that likely reminds people of the school cafeteria, prison or mess hall. Maybe trays instead of […]

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I’m a fan of Salvadoran food

A few years ago, after ordering them in a small Silver Spring, Md., restaurant, I became fond of pupusas, El Salvador’s national dish. Then when someone mentioned a restaurant in Cleveland made them, I hustled across town to the place. As I recall, the pupusas were fine, but other the items on the menu disappointed. I […]

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Five ways to behave in a restaurant

Jonathan Gold, the restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times, recently laid out a restaurant’s responsibility to customers in a superb first paragraph to a review of redesigned Spago: The first responsibility of any great restaurant is to keep you in the bubble, the soft-serve cocoon of illusion where you forget the world exists for anything but […]

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